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The Basics of Starting a Veggie Garden |
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Location. Where will I place the garden. Much care should be put into this
step. Once the garden is places, chances are you won't move it.
- Select a spot that get at least 6 hours of direct sun.
Some place in full sun is better. Your plants will appreciate 8 - 10 hours.
- Closer to the house is better than "walking a mile" to
get to it. If it is conveniently located, you are more likely to work the soil, pull
the weeds, battle the pests, water, water, water, and harvest.
- Locate near a water source. This makes it
convenient for you and your veggies will be happy with a steady supply of water. Vegetable
gardens need at least 1 inch of water each week.
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- Amend the soil for good drainage. I am making
raised bed so that is not an issue, but if you are digging directly in the land you'll
have to add organic matter to create a loose well drained soil. Remember your plants
do not like having their feet wet.
- Time will tell whether Billy & Betty Beagle will have
any interest in the garden. Bob the Beagle ate the carrots. I may have to
built a fence if they want to munch the goodies.
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| Plans for the
Garden. For me, and other gardeners, deciding to follow companion gardening
guidelines means that I don't put my favorite plants in willy-nilly. I will need to
spend some time carefully creating neighborhoods. My goal is to grow enough vegetables
for daily use as well as have some for preserving, canning, and freezing. I'll
draw up a plan and share it later.
Vegetable Garden Layout
Another Vegetable
Garden Layout Block
Style Layout |
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| Add plants that
attract the beneficial bugs. These beneficial
insects will often feed on the bad bugs. Ladybugs and lacewings are good at pest control.
Coneflowers, sweet alyssum or blanket flowers will attract them. I'll add some herbs,
such as dill, parsley or cilantro. |
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| Soils and
Fertilization. I prefer raised bed garden because I can better create the perfect
soil mixture. By next year I will have made compost that can be added to the soil.
Homemade compost is free. Maybe I'll try planting green manure (annual rye) in
the fall. First I'll add a little fertilizer (8-8-8 or 10-10-10), then plant the rye.
When it is knee-high, I'll turn it under. Dad added
ammonium nitrate when he transplanted. I never have. Have you? |
| Start indoors and
then transplant. I've done both - starting indoor and sowing directly in the garden.
Honestly, both methods have worked for me - even in Colorado. When planting
transplants it is important to plant them slight deeper than they grew in containers.
With tomatoes bury up to the first true leaves. |
| Check the packed
date for seeds. Old seeds will give you a disappointing result - better to
start with new ones instead of using last year's seeds. |
| Let the soil tell
you when to water. Generally, if the soil is dry when scratched to a depth of 1 to
2 inches, watering is necessary. On the other hand, if adequate moisture is available, the
next watering can be scheduled for at least two days later. |
| Install drip
irrigation system. In Colorado I had a drip irrigation system for all the flowers &
veggies. I hope to repeat that here. Right now the veggies are water with
soaker hoses. |
| Weed Control and
Mulching. I like to use a organic mulch that will decompose and be turned into the
soil. In Colorado I used newspapers and/or grass clippings. This being more
rural, I could buy some straw and use it. At the end of the season, I can cover with
plastic. The advantage of using clear plastic is that the soil temperature is
increased by as much as 10 oF; black plastic warms the soil by 5 o to
6 oF. Weeds germinate under clear plastic, but not under black.
Think I will stick to black. Warm soil means happy plants in the spring.
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Planning, Preparation, Caring,
Harvesting, Canning |
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Please
e-Mail me your
ideas or comments |
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