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Being a gardener  in Lubbock is a greater challenge than I imagined, but each year is getting better.
Come follow my progress as I get my hands in Texas soil.

Joy Blooms . . .
with veggies, flowers, birds, butterflies, & creatures
                                                                                                                            This page last updated:   05/08/2016 08:07 AM
                                                                                                                                                                            


Bed 3 - Tomatoes

Bed 3 - 2016
 

My experience is that Tomatoes like to grow in the same spot each year.  I do add a fresh heap of compost each year to the bed before I plant the this years tomatoes.  (see http://www.no-dig-vegetablegarden.com/crop-rotation.html for more info)

   
My 2016 Lubbock Victory Garden    ---    Please e-Mail any ideas/comments
  Click on Bed # for List of Crops, etc
  Bed 1
Bed 2
Bed 3
Bed 4
Bed 5
Bed 6
Bed 7
Bed 8
Bed 9
Bed 10
Bed 11
Bed 12
Bed 13
Bed 14
Bed 15
Bed 16
Bed 17
Bed 18
Bed 19
Bed 20
Grapes

 

 

Plans for 2013 include planting the following in the Tomato Bed:

  • Basil=improves flavor of tomatoes
  • Carrots
  • Garlic
  • Marigolds=repels tomato hornworm
  • Nasturtiums=deters aphids & other pests
  • Peppers= Tomatoes provide shade & increase humidity
  • Petunias

 

 

 

2013 Seeds Purchased

 
Planted March 15, 2013:
  • Petite Orange Marigold (American Seed)
  • Dwarf French Tiger Eyes Marigold (Ferry-Morse )
  • Jewel Mixed Colors Nasturtium (Ferry-Morse)
  • Scarlet Nantes Carrots (Urban Farmer)

Plant during the 1st Week of April:
  • Lettuce Leaf Basil (Ferry-Morse)

 

Plant during the 2nd Week of April:
  • Chives (American Seed)
  • Carnival Hybrid Mix Sweet Pepper (Burpee)

 

Plant during the 4th Week of June:
  • Sweet Banana Pepper (Urban Farmer)

 

Plant during the 2nd Week of July:
  • Danvers Half Long Carrot (American Seed)

 

 
Tomatoes Good Neighbors
Asparagus, Basil, Bell Pepper, Borage, Carrots, Celery, Chives, Cucumber, Horehound, Marigold,  Mint, Monarda (Bee Balm), Nasturtium, Onion, Parsley
Bad Neighbors
Cabbage Family  Corn, Dill, Fennel, Potato,
  • Parsley & Asparagus increases the vitality of the each other
  • Tomatoes protect Asparagus against that awful asparagus beetle.

Garlic
  • Plant garlic in late October through early December.  Note: Plant cloves after the first frost. Garlic cloves can also be planted in late winter as soon as the soil thaws, but fall-planted garlic produces bigger, better bulbs.
  • Plant one clove with the pointy end up @ about 8 10 inches deep. Also allow about 2-4 inches between cloves.
  • Garlic requires adequate levels of nitrogen. Fertilize accordingly, especially if you see yellowing leaves.
  • Let the garlic to Flower (late spring/early summer). Once the Flower is dead and the leaves have browned 1/2 to 2/3 of the way down the stem, dig your garlic up. This should happen no later than July.
  • Save some of thelargest, best-formed garlic cloves to plant in the fall.

Harvesting

  • Carefully lift the bulbs with a spade or garden fork; brush off the soil; and cure in an airy, shady spot for one to two weeks. Hanging upside down is a good method for curing.
  • The Garlic is cured when the garlic skins are papery and the roots are dry; the root crown hard; and the cloves can be cracked apart easily.
  • Bulbs should be stored in a cool (40 degrees F), dark, dry place, and can be kept in the same way for several months.
  • The flavor will increase as the bulbs are dried.

If you plan on planting garlic again next season, save some of your largest, best-formed bulbs to plant again in the fall.

 

Planting cloves from the grocery store is risky.  They may be not grow well or be hard to grow (most are treated to prolong shelf life) It is best to order from a seed company or buy at a local nursery.

 

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